The Okavango Delta is a captivating destination for The Rollers. Despite our numerous visits, this group of eight bird fanatics and adventurers have yet to encounter the swamp-like terrain that initially captured our interest. This endorheic basin is facing significant challenges despite being a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and home to a diverse range of wildlife. The ecosystem is rapidly changing due to tectonic forces, and human activities at its source in Angola. The Delta holds significant value in Botswana, contributing around 13% to GDP through tourism.
This trip marks the tenth adventure for The Rollers, a group of city-dwellers from all over South Africa. We gather annually to rekindle our passion for the bush, birds and Southern Africa. These yearly excursions began as a way to explore parts of South Africa that could offer additional rare bird sightings. Over the course of ten years, the group has evolved into a conservation-oriented community deeply committed to advancing environmental interests through meaningful travel experiences. The dedication to conservation has become a cornerstone of our adventures.
The 10th Rollers trip was a unique excursion up the Delta. It was an adventurous journey along the water, camping until the group reached Chiefs Island, the source of our passion for the bush. The Rollers’ passion was inspired by films from Dereck and Beverly Joubert, which showcased wildlife and conservation in Botswana. This trip was intended to test our endurance and expand our knowledge of the area.
On the first day, we met the team with two boats at what was believed to be a reasonably deep part of the Delta close to Maun. We took a few photographs of endemic species in the area, and the Dickenson’s Kestrel was to be our spirit guide for the journey. Ou human guide, Master, had 40 years of experience in the Delta and was just as excited as we were. Our final destination for the day was Lemon Tree Island, which Master had not visited since the year before Covid. Eleven hours later, we were still at least a day away from our intended destination after pushing and pulling the boats up very shallow channels. The water levels were way lower than expected, and Master and his experienced team indicated that these were some of the lowest levels in some 20 years.
We made camp for the night on the banks of the Bora channel, and the next morning set out on a walk to explore our surroundings. The Rollers tradition is to walk, and thanks to our experienced Ranger, Brett Horley, who has joined us on every trip, we ignite our adventures through various lessons in tracking. An abundance of accipiters replaced the lack of water birds, and we were privileged to spot a lifer in the Red-necked Falcon and then witness the takedown of a palm swift by a pair of Lanner Falcons.
On the morning of day two, we continued our journey towards Lemon Tree Island. Along the way, we had some tense encounters with hippos – alive and dead. Eventually, we reached our campsite on the island, an emotional moment for Master and his team, marking their first return to the island since 2019 and noting a significant change in the water levels.
We set out for an evening walk along the banks of the island and were thrilled to find evidence of a Pel’s Fishing owl in the form of a few moulted feathers below a tree perch. The next morning, we set out to find this elusive bird. According to Master, the owl used to frequent the island with a nest site in one of the large jackal-berry trees. Master and Brett used all their tracking experience to guide us to a heavily wooded area in the centre of the island, passing by a pair of Wattled Cranes and four Ground Hornbills hunting. Spotting the tiger-like owl in a large Appleleaf tree was the highlight and a rich reward for the hard days preceding the sighting.
Four days later, the Rollers reached Chiefs Island, finally navigating through deeper water channels. The epic trip concluded with an encounter with the resident-painted wolf pack on foot and a detailed discussion around the fire with our hosts about the changes they are experiencing in their home. The Roller’s finished the trip with 142 bird species by sight, 28 mammal species, and the intention to sponsor two new guides from the local area. We left Chiefs Island by air, intending to experience what we had traversed on the journey from up high. Unfortunately, the air was heavily polluted by fires, and the view was not as clear as we had hoped. This highlighted how human activities in the area are impacting nature. As a group of naturalists, we hope to continue contributing to a positive change in the way land, animals, bird life and humans interact.
Keep Rolling!
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